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Tokyo Olympics Will Start in July 2021

The Tokyo Summer Olympics will take place at the same time slot scheduled for this year’s games, just in 2021. Organizers said Monday the opening ceremony will take place on July 23, 2021, nearly one year after they were due to start this year.

“The schedule for the Games is key to preparing for the Games,” Tokyo organizing committee president Yoshiro Mori said. “This will only accelerate our progress.” Last week, the International Olympic Committee and Japanese organizers postponed the Olympics because of the coronavirus pandemic.

Mori said a spring Olympics was considered, but holding it later gives more time to complete more qualifying events that have been postponed by the virus outbreak. “We wanted to have more room for the athletes to qualify,” Mori said. It’s the first postponement in Olympic history, though there were several cancellations during wartime.

Mori said the cost of rescheduling will be “massive” with local reports estimating billions of dollars. As of now, it seems those athletes who have qualified won’t have to re-qualify. That means that Canadians Sean McColl and Alannah Yip are still heading to the Olympics.

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Stoked at Home: Zangerl and Caprez Send Huge 5.14

Editor’s note: During the coronavirus outbreak, we’ll be sharing videos and stories every morning from the past to keep the stoke up. 

The Neverending Story (Unendliche Geschichte) 5.14a was established by Beat Kammerlander in 1991. At that time it was the hardest multi-pitch route ever freed.

Over 25 years later, Babsi Zangerl and Nina Caprez teamed up to project and ultimately send the big limestone bolted route. The old-school line has some spaced-out bolts and exposed hanging belays.

The Neverending Story

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Ethan Salvo’s Mega Send of Ontario’s Stairwell Project

On Sunday, March 15, sunlight trickled through budding leaves at southern Ontario’s Niagara Glen. Three days later, the area would shut down in an effort to aid in self-isolation during the coronavirus outbreak.

He didn’t know it, but Ontario climber Ethan Salvo would not have another opportunity to try his project before we all went into lock-down.

This sort of project is hard to find these days. Over the past decade, bouldering has grown into a major climbing discipline, one defined by the absolute hardest moves, in southern Ontario. As training knowledge increases, the strength of the climber, and the speed at which they achieve that strength, has also increased.

As a result, there are very few long-term open projects left in local crags. In Niagara, there was only one: the Stairwell Project.

Over the last few decades, it had seen some of Ontario’s strongest climbers try it. Perhaps the craziest thing about the project is how obvious the line is. The holds are perfect. Sloping limestone edges climb out an increasingly steep overhang until the climber is tossing to the lip. If you miss the toss, your back is exposed to a nasty, spine-first fall onto a stone stairwell.

For Salvo, the line had always been inspiring and has represented the next step in his climbing. For those who haven’t met him, Salvo represents a unique case in Canadian youth climbing. He began climbing just over two years ago in November 2017. He first went outside in June 2018. By the following summer, he would go on to complete a number of the Glen’s test-pieces.

During a particularly strong session in 2019, Salvo sent The Punt , a V12 left start to Tim Doyle’s classic V10 The Gunt. In that same session, Salvo would also put down his second V12, Karasu, as well as establishing the sit start to Black Eagle which he would ultimately grade V11.

For a climber with only 16 months experience with the sport, this result is nearly incredible. Even still, the Stairwell Project remained unsent.

Over the course of the following months, Salvo tried and completed the famous project. Sticking moves and making progress, he began to feel closer, though the send was far away. Frustrated, Salvo turned to training, spending hours on the Boulder Parc Tension Board. He went on a trip to Hueco with Canadian strongman Yves Gravelle to learn more about climbing in a powerful style.

Just over a week later, Salvo was back in the Glen with the Stairwell Project being his focus. For Salvo, the project was important. He said, “I wanted to do it to prove I was something.” With such a small number of hard boulders in Ontario, it can be difficult for local climbers to know where they stand in the greater context of difficulty. The Stairwell Project, in many ways, represented progression for both local climbers and the crag as a whole.

Upon his return, Salvo gave the boulder a beta-day followed by a day of rest. Mere moments after warming up, Salvo climbed through the crux and fired the rig.

When asked why he named the problem Rite of Passage, Salvo said: “For me, sending that boulder was my rite of passage to the next level of climbing in the Glen. Now that I’ve done it, every line I look at in the glen seems possible. I feel like my perspective on hard climbing has changed a lot since I’ve done it, and I think the same will go for anyone that repeats it.”

Does that mean the all the projects in the Glen are gone? Not yet. There is a sit to this classic line and Salvo will be descending on it after we each break free from our quarantines.

In regard to the sit, Salvo said, “It’s about four extra moves, but they’re all pretty big, require a lot of tension and precise footwork. It’s been wet the past couple months so I’m not terribly sure how hard it is. The last time I tried it I could do the first move and that was it. I think it’ll be a V8 to 10 boulder into the stand, but the hard part is just having the power endurance for the whole thing.”

Salvo has proposed the grade of V12 for the stand, and the boulder currently awaits a second ascent for confirmation. To stay fit during coronavirus, Salvo has undergone a construction project.

He said, “It’s been a weird shift, but I impulsively built a woodie in my backyard. It’s just enough to train on, but it’s been a ton of work to get it up. I’ve spent the past week building it and making holds, and it’s getting close to done. I’m really fortunate to have it.

“Being able to set simulators of my projects has been a great way to stay in shape, and stay psyched on outdoor climbing.”

Rite of Passage

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Stay-At-Home Climbing Training Routine: Day 14

This past weekend we saw the official rescheduling of the Olympics as a result of the global pandemic. The Games shall now take place in July of 2021 and the athletes that have qualified will retain their qualification. Canadians across the country are facing progressively more stringent self-isolating mandates in an effort to combat the virus. Fortunately, this makes for increasing amounts of training time at home.

Brooke Raboutou locks off on USA Climbing

This “stay-at-home” routine was meant to last for 14 days at the beginning of the self-isolation period. As we come into our fourteenth day, it would seem as though self-isolation could continue for quite some time. As a result, we will continue releasing training routines in an effort to reduce the stress of boredom. These last two weeks we focused on power-endurance. We accomplished high repetition exercises that have made our biceps, triceps, traps, lats, deltoids, and abdominals stronger. There are smaller muscle groups that surely increased in strength as well, but these were the muscle groups we were able to target.

We took a double rest day between Day 11 and Day 14 so that we might recover before entering our power training. Over the course of the next week we will focus on power-training to get the absolute most out of the hypertrophic state our muscles are currently in. We will have a deload week beginning Monday of next week, in which we will reduce the stress and strive to recover before entering a new training cycle.

First, we must address the difference between power training and power-endurance/conditioning training. Power training can appear easier than conditioning due to the limited number of required repetitions. This is not the case. Though we are reducing the rep-count, we are increasing the effort we put into our form as well as our rest time between repetitions and sets. The goal of this sort of training is to produce perfect repetitions in which the maximum amount of “try-hard” is given to each rep. It is important that you try as hard as possible, excluding the possibility of injury, on each repetition.

Unlike the previous two-weeks there will be an order to this routine. It is important that this routine is done in this order.

Warm Up:

  • Warming up will likely differ between people, but these are a few good warm ups.
    • Shoulder rolls
    • Rotations: hold arms out perpendicular to the length of your body. Your arms should be parallel to the floor. Begin by rotating your wrists clockwise while your arms are straight. Then increase the rotation from the shoulders, maintain g your straight arms. Steadily increase the radius of rotation until your arms are wind milling, then reverse the direction.
    • Hang on a bar and retract and relax your shoulders
      • Complete a number of pull ups that would warm you up but not tire you out

Agonist muscles:

Once your biceps and shoulders are fully warm, or so warm that you could pull as hard as you would want, begin off-set pull ups.

Offset pull ups:

Offsets are designed to help you build one-arm power. Though we accomplished thee over the course of our conditioning period, we will adjust them for maximum output. Hang a rope from your pull-up bar. Place your hand as low as you can on that rope. Either knot it, or tape the rope so that you know your maximum offset distance between days.

  • Complete 4 sets of 3 repetitions on each arm
    • Rest for two to five minutes between each set, even between arms
      • Be careful of your wrists during this period.
    • If you are already capable of completing a one-arm pull up, then strive to complete between 6 and 10 one-arm pull ups, a side, separated by two-minutes rest.

Lock-Offs:

Once your offsets are complete, rest for five-minutes and begin your lock-offs.

Try and hold a lock-off with one arm bent at 90-degrees. If this is too challenging, complete the exercise in a full lock-off on one arm. If this is too difficult, complete ten negatives.

  • Negatives: Hold a full lock-off with two arms at the top of the bar. Let one arm go and try and resist gravity with the other arm. You will either hold the lock-off or slowly descend to a straight arm position. The goal of a negative is to increase the time it takes to descend.
    • Complete ten one-arm negatives on each side
  • Lock Offs:
    • If you are able to complete the lock-off, then…
    • Aim to hold lock for 10 seconds. 3 sets a side.

Antagonist Muscles:

Push-ups: High Intensity

Complete 5, 7, or 10 repetitions depending on your skill level per exercise. Once that is established…

Complete the following exercises three times in a row for a total of nine sets. Your total push-up count for the day will be either 45, 63, or 90 repetitions.

  • elbows-back push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
  • diamond push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
  • archer push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds

Core:

For Day 14 we will maintain a fairly high level of repetitions in our core exercises. We will reduce this number slightly in an effort to perfect our form. On the leg-lifts especially, strive for perfect form. Remember, perfect form means no swing and straight legs.

Hanging leg-lifts:

Beginner: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring the legs up so that your body makes a 90-degree angle

Moderate: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring your feet to the bar

Expert: 10 sets of 10 repetitions: feet to bar

Cardio:

Run for 45 minutes at a moderate intensity.

Flexibility:

Hold each stretch for 15-30 seconds:

  • Straddle Splits: This stretch is important to climbing as it increases a climber’s lateral flexibility for moves like stemming in a corner.
  • Hamstring: keep your legs straight and bend down to your feet. Keep your back flat for an alternate version of this stretch.
  • Hip-flexor: Flexible hip-flexors allow a climber to high-step.
  • Quadricep: preventative against injury
  • Triceps stretch: preventative against injury
  • Shoulder stretch: increases mobility
  • Calf stretch: increased heel-hooking mobility

Featured photo thanks to Andrew Conroy and @trainingbeta

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Stay-At-Home Climbing Training Routine: Day 11

As the coronavirus grips the nation, many people are focusing on isolating themselves at home for a few weeks. Most climbing and fitness gyms have closed and crag climbing isn’t recommended (due to overcrowding).

In light of the current situation, we’ll be posting daily training routines. If you’re going to be home, you might as well keep training. Thanks to everyone who is out and continuing to work in public during the outbreak, including essential services and folks at the grocery stores.

Today, we will continue yesterday‘s intensity as we approach our two-day rest cycle. Over the next two days it is recommended that you pursue the core routine included in this exercise. As flexibility is also accessible during a rest period, it is also recommended that you stretch.

As always, maintaining the psych is important if not a bit challenging. Today, take a look at the Lattice Training Channel Youtube. The experienced coaches at Lattice have released many exceptional training videos to benefit the self-isolating public.

Core

  • The 5-minute Core Destroyer:

    • One minute each of the following exercises:
      • Plank
      • big kicks
      • swimmer kicks
      • V-Sit
      • big kicks
    • There is no rest between each exercise, instead rest at the conclusion of all five exercises. Then rest for five minutes and repeat the routine three times more.

Antagonist Muscles

Push-Ups:

  • Elbows back: 

    • complete 20-40 push-ups with your elbows in line with your torso.
  • Wide Stance: 

    • complete 20-40 push-ups with your elbows perpendicular to your torso.
  • Diamond Stance:

    • complete 20-40 diamond push-ups. Place your hands adjacent to one another in the middle of the floor. Lower your body until your sternum touches your hands, then push up. Elbows should press in-line with your torso.
  • Archer:

    • Create a wide stance with your hands. Keep one arm straight while you depress your opposite arm. Push with the opposite arm, utilizing your straight arm for extra leverage as required. Complete 20-40 push-ups with a depressed left arm, and 20-40 with a depressed right arm.

Dips:

  • Beginner: 5 sets of 10 repetitions
  • Intermediate: 7 sets of 10 repetitions
  • Expert: 10 sets of 10 repetitions

Agonist Muscles

Off-set pull ups:

Today, complete before pull-ups.

Pull Ups:

To get more power out of your pull-up routine, strive to pull quickly as you go up, and to release slowly as you go down. In climbing, power helps you go up, and strength helps you hold tension.

    • Beginner:

      • one arm lock-off: 3 sets at 10 seconds
      • complete 30 pull-ups
    • Intermediate:

      • one arm lock-off: 3 sets at 10 seconds
      • complete 100 pull-ups
    • Expert:

      • complete a 90-degree lock-off for 10 seconds, three sets a side
      • complete 200 pull-ups

Cardio

Run:

  • Maintain the distance from yesterday.

Flexibility

Hold each stretch for 15-30 seconds:

  • Straddle Splits: This stretch is important to climbing as it increases a climber’s lateral flexibility for moves like stemming in a corner.
  • Hamstring: keep your legs straight and bend down to your feet. Keep your back flat for an alternate version of this stretch.
  • Hip-flexor: Flexible hip-flexors allow a climber to high-step.
  • Quadricep: preventative against injury
  • Triceps stretch: preventative against injury
  • Shoulder stretch: increases mobility
  • Calf stretch: increased heel-hooking mobility

Thanks to Ollie Jerrett for the featured photo.

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Five Things To Do Instead of Climbing This Weekend

The novel coronavirus covid-19 outbreak has changed the way we live, for the time being, and has forced land owners and governments to close parks and restrict access to the backcountry.

As climbers everywhere join together to help healthcare workers prepare for a possible surge in covid-19 patients by staying home, everyone still needs to stay fit and get outdoors. Below are some ways to.

Donate Gear/Food

Go through your gear looking for items, like sleeping bags or tents, that you no longer need. Research where you can donate them in your area. That goes the same with food if you are able to, as many food banks say they need donations because of the rise of unemployment across Canada.

Running

Running is one of the best ways to stay fit for when you head back to the mountains. Be careful if you go trail running, but it’s not recommended because spring weather can make for some muddy trails. Avoiding injuries will help the front line of workers trying to battle the outbreaks, that means sticking to safe places to run. Be sure to follow Canadian Running on Instagram below, one of the magazines owned by Gripped Publishing.

Trail Work

If you live close to a climbing area, then head out to clean up the trails post-winter. Be sure to check the access to your local crag, as many areas are currently closed, like Skaha.

Clean Your Rack

Climbing racks get dirty and this is a perfect time to give them a clean. Wash your rope, lube your cams and scrub your quickdraws. Dump the dirt out from the bottom of your packs, wash your stinky apparel and sweep get your vehicle ready for the next road trip.

Train!

We’re a few days into this new reality and the shock of it all should be starting to fade soon. If you haven’t already started to train for post-covid-19 times then get to it! We’re proving a stay-at-home training routine online, be sure to check it out here. Follow us on Instagram below for some old classic climbing shots.

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Watch a Free-Solo Dyno in Retro Film by Cedar Wright

Cedar Wright is a well-known climber and filmmaker who’s known for films like Sufferfest and Safety Third, but long before those films he produced one call Pra Caramba. Read what Wright said about the video below and be sure to watch the nine-minute film that included a free-solo dyno.

Way before the gram, and an endless sea of content, my first attempt at a short film was Pra Caramba. It follows the antics of Brazilian wild men Lucas “Jah” Marques and Hugo Langel in the incredible climbers paradise of Serra do Cipó.

It features the second most terrifying free-solo I’ve ever documented, a close second to Safety Third. This was my first attempt at something a little more put together than a three minute internet video. I pretty much shot, edited everything and even made all the music. Looking back, the colour correction is heavy handed and my narration makes me want to cringe, and yet, there is still something I love about this film. It’s cool to look back at your progression as a filmmaker.

It’s dated, and flawed, and yet there is a certain earnestness and innocence to this project that I can’t help but love and be proud of. At the end of the day, over 10 years later, it’s still entertaining, so definitely no regrets. Enjoy!

Cedar’s First Film

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Light Show on Matterhorn to Inspire Hope During Coronavirus

The Matterhorn is one of the most famous peaks in the world, with over 100 years of epics and legendary ascents. Now, during the coronavirus outbreak, Swiss authorities are lighting up one of the peak up to show solidarity in the fight against the coronavirus.

Local officials in Zermatt have authorized light artist Gerry Hofstetter to illuminate the peak with words and images of encouragement and inspiration. Nearly everything in Zermatt and across Switzerland is closed as officials join an international effort to beat coronavirus.

Some of the images include a heart, the Swiss flag, the words “Hope” and “#stayhome.” The exhibition runs nightly from sundown to 11 p.m., weather permitting, and can be seen live on the www.zermatt.ch/hope site. The shows are to run through April 19.

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A Guide to Getting Outside During a Pandemic

Getting outside is one of the best things you can do during the coronavirus covid-19 outbreak and it’s a great way to get the blood flowing before training on the hangboard.

Experts say that running, walking and hiking are all considered socially responsible exercises and are encouraging getting outside for the mental, as well as physical health benefits.

Here are some tips on how you can make your outdoor time more socially responsible.

Respect Closures

If parks or trails are closed, don’t go. If they’re open, remember they might have limited maintenance. Don’t leave trash, use the bathroom before you head out and check local closures.

Head Out Alone or With Someone Who Lives With You

Social distancing means limiting contact with people who don’t live with you. Lots of runners are doing their runs solo, but if your roommates, partner or family are looking to get some exercise, encourage them to come with you. If your partner isn’t into running, encourage them to bike slowly alongside you. Please avoid group runs.

Stay Close to Home

Don’t travel to get outside. Stay as close to home as possible. If you can recreate in your neighbourhood then do it.

Stick to Mellow Workouts

Steve Magness is a performance coach and author who reminds people exercising during the pandemic to avoid going “to the well” in training. The “well” describes an extremely hard workout that can leave someone in an immune-depleted state. Magness also reminds us to continue to fuel the calories they burn while working out, as a calorie deficit can also limit recovery.

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Stoked at Home: First Ascent of The Walk of Life 5.13cR

Editor’s note: During the coronavirus outbreak, we’ll be sharing videos and stories every morning from the past to keep the stoke up. 

The Walk of Life might be most famous for being initially graded E12 7a, the hardest grade ever given to a route in the U.K. James Pearson suggested the grade and then Dave MacLeod down-graded it to E9.

It follows a long and bold line on slightly friable rock, situated on Dyer’s Lookout, a big sea cliff on the north coast of Devon. The third ascent went to Dave Birkett, who said, “If you were to apply a sport grade to Walk of Life it would weigh in at about F8a+, or American 5.13cR.”

Walk of Life E9 / 5.13cR